Spices 101

Spices 101

“The Spice Companion” by Lior Lev Sercarz

Lior Lev Sercarz, Chief Culinary Officer and Co-Founder of the Galilee Culinary Institue is an esteemed spice master. He is also the author of three award-winning cookbooks. We are happy to share with you some Spice tips from his book “The Spice Champion”.

"Spices have always been desired, particularly by those who could not easily access them. They were darlings of the wealthy, who threw lavish feasts to show off dishes seasoned with rare and expensive saffron, nutmeg, and cloves. To manage the growing demand, the spice trade and the Age of Discovery were born."

SPICES AS MEDICINE

Apart from their inherent ability to enhance aromas and flavors in dishes, spices have been used for millennia for their medicinal qualities. Whether they were prized for their mystical powers or for their actual health benefits is up for some debate. Archaeologists discovered that King Tut’s tomb was adorned with spices: black nigella seeds, six cloves of garlic, Mediterranean thyme, and a garland made with wild celery were all said to be found joining him in his journey to the afterlife.

Alexander the Great was said to soak in a bath steeped with safron threads to heal his battle wounds during the Asian campaigns, and in the seventeenth century, herbs like hyssop (also noted in the Bible) were strewn around sickrooms to quash the spread of infection.

 Ancient Indian medical writings like the Suśrutasamhitā, which was foundational to the traditional Ayurvedic texts, included a number of references to spices and their healing properties—cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, turmeric, and pepper among them.

 Greek physician Hippocrates noted several hundred medicines that had spices to thank for their curative properties. Cilantro and coriander have anti-inflammatory properties; cardamom and cubeb (Java pepper) have natural antiseptic qualities; bergamot, anise seed, and chocolate, not surprisingly, have sedative virtues; and eucalyptus, ginger, and onion help those with colds to recover.

Today, we are seeing a resurgence of ancient traditions, from a renewed interest in Chinese medicine, built primarily on herbs and spices, to an interest in exotic cuisines such as Indian, which relies on turmeric, fenugreek, garlic, onion, and ginger, all of which benefit overall health.

While we may no longer need to rely on bathing in expensive safron-steeped waters, we can enjoy a better, healthier lifestyle as a welcome side effect of savoring well-seasoned food.

Each region of the world offers unique spices that lay the foundation for the local cuisine, but no one place grows them all. Crops that grow in more than one place take on different characteristics according to their terroir; Indian and Turkish cumin just don’t taste the same. The good news is, when weather has a negative impact on the crops in one place, the other can step in to fill demand.

Weather and geopolitical variations can determine whether a crop is readily available or on the verge of extinction.

The crucial part in the process is drying spices properly to preserve them over time and avoid spoilage—though some are freeze-dried or brined, as green peppercorns are. Drying is often still done by exposure to sun and wind where the spices are vulnerable to insects and other “friends,” but more and more we are seeing large oven-like dehydrators used to speed the process and provide better, cleaner results.

SANITIZING SPICES

Spices are sanitized in three primary ways:

1. STEAM Whole spices are placed in a large-scale steamer for a few minutes to kill bacteria and other harmful agents. It is a very natural process, but it takes away some of the spice’s flavor and color.

2. IRRADIATION This method treats spices with electricity or radiation to eliminate all foodborne hazards. It is fast and does not afect the quality or characteristics of the spices. Though it has been criticized as carrying a potential risk to humans, more and more research shows that it is not harmful. The FDA mandates that foods that have been directly irradiated include specific statements indicating this on their packaging.

3. ETHYLENE OXIDE (ETO) AND PROPYLENE OXIDE (PPO) These methods expose spices to fumigants at low temperatures to eliminate harmful pathogens. The fumigants then evaporate, leaving no trace behind. This practice is one of the most common, particularly because it is said to ensure food safety while protecting the characteristics of each spice. Though some would argue their safety merits, both of these fumigants have been used by the food and pharmaceutical industries for years.

WHOLE OR GROUND?

This is a million-dollar question to which there is no definite answer. If you think that you will have the energy to deal with grinding whole spices, then you definitely should. If you don’t have the time and want to use what little you have on actually cooking a meal, buying ground spices is the way to go. Not everyone wants to come home after a full day of work and grind spices. That’s okay. Some spices—such as turmeric, paprika, and ginger—can rarely be found whole anyway. These require heavy-duty hammer mill grinders and are usually ground in their respective countries of origin. However, I would highly recommend that you buy certain spices whole because of the risk of adulteration. Sadly, the spice industry is not spared from people trying to make an extra dollar at your expense by adding fillers to bulk up weight. I’ve heard of instances in which olive pits are ground and blended into black pepper, the skins and roots of onions and garlic included in their respective powders, and beet powder mixed with sumac to perk up the color. It’s foul play. In any case, you should trust your judgment and knowledge of the way you cook and shop. There is nothing wrong with buying ground spices if they come from a reputable source. They can save you a lot of time. In my experience, people usually cook more if they have ground spices and blends on hand versus having to start from scratch every time. What matters is that you use them.

HOW TO TOAST OR ROAST SPICES

You can toast spices in a pan on the stove or dry roast them in the oven. Both are good methods; it’s a matter of preference.

PAN TOASTING

PROS: You can see what’s happening and smell when the spices are ready. CONS: You have to keep an eye on the pan and stir continuously, because heat is only delivered from the bottom. Not everyone has time for that. METHOD: Put the spices in a skillet and toast over medium heat, stirring with a wooden spoon. Once you get a nice scent, transfer the spices to a cold container to stop the cooking process. For first-timers, start by toasting the spices individually. When you get better at it, go all in. There are no specific cooking times. It’s up to your personal preference and the fragrance. You’ll know if you’ve gone too far.

OVEN OR DRY ROASTING

PROS: You get uniform results; it’s easy to do and very efficient. It’s also great for multitasking; you don’t have to worry about stirring or burning. CONS: Not everyone wants to heat up the oven or has time to wait for that. And you really have to open the oven to smell for doneness. Do try roasting in a convection oven, but be sure to cover the spices with a second baking sheet—everything will blow away if left uncovered. METHOD: Preheat the oven to 325°F. Pour the spices onto a rimmed baking sheet, cover with a second baking sheet, and transfer to the oven. (Covering the spices keeps them from spilling out and ensures they get heated from the bottom and the top.) Set the timer: start with 2 to 3 minutes and add more time until you get there. On average it takes 5 to 8 minutes. To assess doneness, open the oven to take a whiff.

BUYING FROM THE OPEN MARKET

There was a time, long ago, when certain cultures were using so many spices that vendors only had to open large bags and create beautiful, colorful pyramids of them to attract clients. Within a few days the bags would be empty. Today, these market spice pyramids remain as beautiful as they have always been, but since they don’t sell the way they used to, they mainly collect dust and urban pollutants. As a rule, these precious spices should be kept in sealed containers out of the sun’s heat in order to preserve their great scents and flavors. Exposing them to air and light just deteriorates their best attributes. What you smell is gone. So, do take pictures of these beautiful bags in the markets on your travels, but try to buy spices that are properly packaged.

CONSIDERING ORGANIC SPICES

As much as I love organic products, it’s important to mention that, because they are not subject to any treatments, they can sometimes be at high risk for containing bugs. Having the organic designation doesn’t mean that a spice is of better quality or tastes better, just that it may be cleaner or may not have any residual pesticides. To be fair, there are a handful of reputable organic purveyors out there. You really just have to check your sources and test the quality before committing to any big purchases. Organic or not, the choice is entirely up to you.

THE CONTAINER

Spices should be kept in a sealed container that keeps out humidity, does not conduct heat or react to the spice, has little or no exposure to light, and is easy to clean. Any change in heat will cause a loss in scent and flavor; humidity will create lumps or big chunks and can also develop mold on chile flakes or cause garlic and onion to ferment. Of course, containers should also look good in your kitchen and fit your cooking style and needs. Here are some tips that can help you choose the right container for you:

Glass PROS: Glass is very good since it does not react to the ingredients, unlike some plastics or woods. It does not conduct a lot of heat; you can easily see what is inside to keep track of inventory; it is easy to clean; and, quite simply, it’s nice to look at. CONS: Tere is a risk of breakage and exposure to light.

Plastic PROS: There is a low risk of breakage in the kitchen, and if it’s opaque, there’s no concern of light exposure. CONS: A lot of plastic containers can react to the acidity found in spices, which can actually eat away at or dissolve the material. Not all plastic materials are BPAfree. Unless it is clear, you’ll have to open it to see what’s left in the jar.

Metal PROS: It is easy to clean and does not react to spices or retain odors. There’s no risk of breakage or light exposure. CONS: It conducts heat and ofers no ability to keep track of inventory without opening the container to look inside.

Wood PROS: There is no risk of breakage or light exposure, and there is little risk of heat conductivity. CONS: The material could react to spices, which makes it difficult to clean. It is also a breathing material that might allow humidity to seep through, and there is no way to see the inventory inside without opening the container.

Plastic Bags PROS: They take up very little storage space because they can be laid flat and stacked. CONS: They do not seal very well; they risk exposure to light; and because they do not stand on their own, they are not practical in the kitchen.

REFRIGERATION & FREEZING

While keeping spices at low temperatures can help expand their shelf life, if stored incorrectly there is a risk of humidity sneaking in. Also, storing spices with other food products increases the chances that they will impart their scent to your food, or the other way around. While I do not recommend storing spices in the refrigerator or freezer, if you must, storing them in an airtight container is best.

LABELING

You should always label your containers. Spices (and spice blends in particular) can often look the same, and you can’t always rely on your memory to know what you have. You could even go one step further and add the purchase date so you know when it is time to start using up that nearly vintage cumin—it will not get better with time. You might even add the country of origin and where the spice was purchased. Spices that grow in more than one place, like oregano and cumin, should be kept separated based on place of origin—they taste different and shouldn’t be lumped together.

SPICE RACKS & DISPLAYS

There is not one answer as to what you should have in terms of a rack or storage system, but there are some things to consider. Prefilled spice racks should be avoided at all costs. You’ll never know when they were packaged or how old the spices are. Buy an empty one and fill it with the newly dried or freshly purchased spices you need. Spices should be out on the counter or mounted on the wall of your kitchen so you can see them. If they are not accessible to where you are cooking or are hidden in a cabinet somewhere, you’ll use them less often and might even completely forget what you have.